The Road to Mecca

At some point during these years of expanding business and deepening public reputation, Sajjad Husain undertook the pilgrimage to Mecca — the Hajj, the journey every believing Muslim who can afford it is obligated to make at least once in a lifetime, and a journey that, in the early twentieth century, still carried genuine physical risk and real logistical difficulty for a traveler departing from a district town in North India.

The preparations alone would have consumed weeks. Tickets had to be secured, often through agents whose reliability varied considerably. Money had to be arranged, converted, and carried in a form secure enough to survive a journey across multiple countries and several changes of transport — by rail to a port city, by ship across the Arabian Sea, and then overland or by further sea passage toward the Hijaz, each leg of the journey its own small negotiation with uncertainty. Health had to be considered: a man setting out on a demanding physical journey in an era before modern medicine understood how to manage the crowds, the heat, and the strain of the pilgrimage rites was taking a real risk with his own body, a risk that thousands of pilgrims every year did not survive.

What the family remembers of the journey itself is less the logistics than the transformation it seems to have worked on him — not a transformation in the dramatic, storybook sense of a hardened businessman suddenly becoming a different person, but a deepening of a devotion that had, by every account, already been present in him since boyhood. He returned from Mecca carrying the honorific "Haji" that would attach itself to his name for the rest of his life and appear in every subsequent document, letter, and remembrance connected with him — Haji Syed Sajjad Husain, a title that was never merely decorative to the people who used it, because everyone who knew him understood that the devotion it signified was not a performance he had adopted for the journey and set aside on his return. It traveled home with him, and it stayed.

Travel itself, the family recalls, brought him into contact with pilgrims from regions and backgrounds far removed from Shahpur — Muslims from across India and beyond, gathered in a single place for a single purpose, a vivid demonstration of the wider religious and cultural world that his self-taught study of Persian and his correspondence with scholars had, until then, only allowed him to imagine from a distance. He came home with his sense of the world enlarged and his sense of his own household correspondingly dearer — the particular gift the Hajj gives to those who undertake it honestly, of returning changed enough to see one's ordinary life freshly, and grateful for it.